The Hainanese aren’t the only ones who know how bring out the best in chickens. Stewed in soy sauce and other ingredients, Cantonese-style soy sauce chicken is another perennial favourite in Singapore’s culinary scene.
No review of soy sauce chicken is complete without the two famous pioneers in Upper Cross Street. These two rivals are actually siblings. Chew Kee (no. 8)—the original stall started by the founder—is helmed by the elder sister, while Chiew Kee (no. 32) is operated by the younger brother.
So whose version is better, no. 8 or no. 32? Or is there an even worthier competitor out there to un-throne their status as best soy sauce chicken? Find out who’s the soy sauce chicken champion in this fowl competition!
Lee Fun Nam Kee Chicken Rice & Restaurant EDITOR’S PICK!
94 Toa Payoh Lor 4, #01-04
Opening hours: Daily: 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm
Price: from $4.00
Rating: 4.5/5
Besides Hainanese chicken rice, Lee Fun Nam Kee also serves outstanding soy sauce chicken. From the way they chop the chicken down to the doneness of the kailan, no small detail is left out.
Tender, juicy and incredibly silky, the chicken is liberally bathed in their signature thick gravy. This rich gravy has a seductive honey-like sweetness and robust roasted fragrance. Even those of us who usually eschew gooey gravy were bowled over! But if you prefer your noodles without the gravy, you can ask them to serve the chicken separately (at a higher cost).
Expertly executed, the thin and springy noodles have just the right doneness. They are dressed with a hint of sesame oil and served with a side of kailan. Zesty and lively, the chicken rice chilli sauce is just as sublime.
Prices here are slightly higher due to more comfortable ambience. But we believe connoisseurs would gladly fork out this small price difference for top-notch quality soy sauce chicken!
Chew Kee Eating House MOST TRADITIONAL FLAVOR
8 Upper Cross Street
Opening hours: 8am-6pm, closed alternate Fri
Price: from $3.00
Rating: 4/5
It’s a close fight. But after a back-to-back taste-test of the two rival chicken noodle eateries in Upper Cross Street, our pick is No. 8.
With its more robust marinade, No. 8’s chicken has the winning edge. The skin is dark and flavourful, perfumed with a lovely scent of rose wine. The chicken is gorgeously juicy and meaty. However, the gravy for the noodles is a bit lackluster; its sweet-savoury flavours could have been more distinct. The bouncy noodles have a bare hint of alkaline. Portions here are more generous compared to No. 32.
Although some might prefer the sweeter style over at No. 32, we feel that No. 8’s version is more original and rustic. This pioneer remains a must-visit for chicken noodle lovers.
Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle BEST VALUE
335 Smith Street, #02-127 Chinatown Complex Food Centre
Opening hours: Thu-Tue: 10am-8pm (earlier if sold out)
Price: from $2.50
Rating: 4/5
Just a stone’s throw away from the two rival soy sauce chicken noodle specialists at Upper Cross Street is this very worthy competitor helmed by an ex-restaurant chef.
Lightly tanned and evenly glazed, the chicken tastes as appealing as it looks. Most of the sweetish marinade is on the skin. The meat is subtly infused with the marinade, but at the same time, it retains its chicken-y flavour. Smooth and juicy, the flesh is tender but retains a lovely springy bite.
Instead of the usual watery sauce, the wiry Hong Kong-style noodles here are drier in style. They are tossed with just a sufficient amount of sauce that clings onto the noodles. The sauce is a more-ish concoction of sweet and savoury flavours, with a dash of garlic oil to augment the overall effect.
69 Geylang Bahru
#01-2795 Geylang Bahru Market & Food Centre
Opening hours: Mon-Sat: 12pm-11.30pm
Price: from $3.00
Rating: 3.5/5
The marinade for the chicken would benefit from a stronger fragrance. But on the whole, this is one satisfying soy sauce chicken noodle!
What really makes this version such a comforting dish is the wickedly addictive sauce. The savoury-sweet sauce—with a hint of oyster sauce—is well-balanced in flavour. It is tasty without overwhelming the chicken. Just a tad undercooked, the chicken meat is firm but smooth. The noodles are al dente.
Adding to value is the hearty serving size. The punchy chilli sauce—tangy and garlick-y—is very appetising.
Chiew Kee Chicken Noodle House
32 Upper Cross Street
Opening hours: 8am-6.30pm, closed alternate Wed
Price: from $3.00
Rating: 3/5
Chiew Kee serves a more-than-decent soy sauce chicken noodle. However, among its peers in this roundup, Chiew Kee pales in comparison.
Their noodles are excellent. Eggy, thin and delightfully springy, they betray no hint of alkaline. But the chicken suffers from a weak marinade that could do with more depth and fragrance. The bird was also slightly overcooked, leading to soggy meat that lacks bite.
The sweet dressing for the noodles would find favour with those who prefer their sauces on the sweet side. But it could be improved with more complexity and depth. Portions here are on the small side.
inSing.com made anonymous visits and paid for its own meals at the stalls featured here.
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