There's a science to the way durian sellers categorise durian: big, small, round and oval; for thorns, they are classified into very sharp and thorny, or blunt. You may think this is funny, but these characteristics actually affect the price you pay. Even more crucial to the cost of durian is the various flavours and scents. The latter ranges from a comparatively mild waft, to a full-on, almost intolerable pungency that promises nothing but the most bitter taste.

Choosing the winner
Despite prodding several durian stall owners to reveal their methods of identifying good durians, most didn't want to reveal their trade secrets. We ended up with a host of tired dummies' guide tips like picking durians that are lighter in weight and paying attention to pungency levels for desired sweetness.  Most of them would top it off with saying, "as long as you are buying a durian from us, we guarantee that it will be a good one".

We weren't deterred.

Seventy four year-old Diana Ho, a lover of the fruit for over 50 years, swears by a technique that never fails to get the best of the lot. "The thorny, odd-shaped ones are the most bitter and flavourful," the matriarch said in Cantonese. "Tap the side of the fruit and listen carefully to tell if the tap is hollow or full sounding. Make sure it is only slightly hollow," she said.

According to Diana, a dull sound is a telling sign that the durian is full of water (bad). Loud and loose sounding knocks are bad too because it either means the seeds are large or the fruit is unripe. If you shake the fruit and it sounds like a soggy maracas, you've got a winner.

Ah Di, a helper at a fruit shop in Geylang, had a few tips for us as we sat down to eat our durian. "Always eat here, don't take-away." Good advice because experience tells us that when you're dining-in, it's often easier to ask for a replacement when the durians are less than satisfactory.

Also, avoid buying pre-packed durian. Unless you watch them pack the fruit, the quality of packed durian is inconsistent at best and a waste of money at worst. When it comes to durian, it's always better to eat it fresh.

You might be wondering if the durian-choosing tips Mrs Ho gave worked. Here's what the team found: it'll take some time to figure the art of durian selection by shape, size, sound and smell, but honestly, we don't think you would mind experimenting.

The envious task of durian research
A little durian-sleuthing revealed that in May prices range from $8-$18 per kg of (whole) durian, depending on variety.  Don't be persuaded to pay anything more than that, said a durian seller we interviewed. Good advice, we say, but here's what he said that's far juicier: prices will drop significantly by mid-June, once the incoming supply of durians surges.

Overall, our experience of researching durian across the island was blissful. Don't fret if the highly-priced durian in Geylang puts you off. There are a good number of places where you can get your fix at a reasonable price - some just round the corner from where you live.

 
Unnamed stall at Queen St, at the very end of Bugis Street Market
Prices: This stall sells its packed durian at the best prices, ranging from a huge selection of $2 packs, to the premier $28 ones, all pre-packed and shrink-wrapped in Styrofoam boxes - not ideal but very convenient if you're buying for folks at home.
Service & impressions: The men tending the stall are gruff but good-humoured - they may not give a discount on the already very well-priced durian, but they definitely know their fruit. 
Dining in: No permanent seating available, though shop owners won't mind pulling a chair for you in the evenings.
Pre-orders: James, 68426828
Opening hours: 10am to 10pm daily


Special Durian at the junction of Albert St and Short St
Prices: Durians are sold whole and starting from $7 per kg, with prices for D24 and Mao Shan Wang durians varying according to the season and supply. 
Service & impressions: Special Durian is owned and manned by the elderly and very genial Teo Boon Teck, who guarantees that he will choose the best durian for the customer.
Dining in: No seating available.
Pre-orders: Teo Boon Teck, 98738466/ 63966321
Opening hours: Afternoon to 11pm daily


Unnamed stall outside #01-306, Toa Payoh Central Blk 183
Prices: The packed durians are going at two for $10. They look ripe, rich, succulent and yellow. Whole durians are priced at three for $20, three for $10 or one for $5.
Service & impressions: The boss is a veteran in the business who cracks and empties durian into boxes at top speed. The stall was bustling with people looking to buy durians, but the staff served their customers with a smile.
Dining-In: No seating available.
Pre-orders:  No
Opening Hours: 5pm till late at night
 

Wan Li Xian at Holland Rd, Fringe Car Park Lot 52/53 off Dempsey Rd
Prices: Segamat durians costs $8 per kg. Other durians sold here (whole) are the Red Prawn durian at $10 per kg, the Mao Shan Wang durian at $18 per kg, as well as four or five other types of durian which normally get sold out by around 8pm. 
Service & impressions: The men tending the stall were helpful and friendly. With over 40 years of history, it has gathered a faithful following with the residents nearby.
Dining in: Yes.
Pre-orders: Ah Di, 97562385/ 94394578
Opening hours: Afternoon to 10pm


Durian Stall in 261 Balestier Rd, in front of the Tua Pek Kong Temple
Prices: We had a 1.5kg bag of mangosteens here for $5 together with a lovely, rich and potent Mao Shan Wang durian at $18 per kg.
They stock a whole array of other durians such as the Golden Phoenix ($15 per kg), Red Prawn ($10 per kg), small-seed durian ($12 per kg), Segamat ($8 per kg) and XO and D24 as well. 
Service & impressions: Mr Ang helms this stall that, according to him, trumps the two other stalls just down the road with its 50 plus years of heritage. He said his good service has won him celebrity fans such as Fann Wong, Christopher Lee and even Chow Yun Fatt.
Dining in: Yes - there's even a toilet.
Pre-Orders: Mr Ang 81430495/ 90292837
Opening hours: 1pm to 12 midnight


Unnamed stall in front of #01-28, People's Park Complex
Prices: Larger than standard styrofoam packs of rich-looking durian go for $4 per pack (D24), $8 per pack and $12 per pack (Mao Shan Wang), respectively. Together with the Queen St stall, this appears to be one of the best-priced stalls around for durian. Coincidentally, the durian pancakes (thin wafer-crepes made fresh and filled with chilled D24 durian puree) at $1.20 are also heavenly.
Service & impressions: Stall owners are as quick with their hands as they are with their smiles.
Dining in: No
Pre-orders: No
Opening hours: 9am to 10.30pm daily


Fruit stall at #01-160, Blk 34 Upper Cross St
Prices: The stall's red-flesh, sweet durians from Malaysia are available at three for $10 or $5-7 for a single durian. Patrons include passers-by as well regulars. 
Service & impressions: Service was patient and helpful.
Pre-orders: No
Dining in: No
Opening hours: 9am to 10pm daily
 

Hoe Seng Heng Durian Centre, 49 Sims Ave (opposite Lorong 7 Geylang)
Prices: Durians range from the Segamat to the D24, with the Mao Shan Wang hidden at the rear. Prices range from $2 a fruit to $20 for three, and $15 for the more premium fruit.
Service & impressions: It's a modest establishment offering good prices for durians. Sellers are easy-going and don't mind giving you a discount if you insist.
Dining in: Yes
Pre-orders: Hock Chew, 9838 3633
Opening Hours: 5pm till late at night


Wonderful Fruit Enterprise, 147 Sims Ave (alongside Lorong 17 Geylang)
Open 5pm to late at night
Prices: Among the many durian shops that line Geylang and Sims Ave, this must be one of the better ones. That said, its prices are exorbitant. Starting for $2 per Segamat durian to $8 per D24, to $25 for three for the XO, and $22 per kg for the Mao Shan Wang, you'll be forking out at the higher end of the scale in Geylang for its premium durian.
Service: What sets the stall apart has to be service. It's a pleasant experience to eat there because of the generous seating space, interesting durian selection process and free dispensed water.
Dining in: Yes
Pre-orders: Lau Yang 8177 8839 / 9052 5553
Opening hours: 5pm till late at night

 
To find out about the different types of durians and their unique characteristics click here. This Friday, look out for durian recipes you can try at home.